Osaka (大阪, Ōsaka) is Japan’s second largest metropolitan area after Greater Tokyo. We anticipated something quite different, today, after soaking up the cultural hot spots of Kyoto over the past couple of days. The Lonely Planet guide describes Oska thus:
Osakans are famously brash, playful (many of Japan’s comedians are from here) and less hung up on etiquette than other Japanese.
Osaka’s unofficial slogan is kuidaore (eat yourself to ruin), which as home to some of the country’s best-loved snacks sounds a worthy challenge.
Now, I think it is fair to say that neither of us is remotely brash, we appreciate good manners, and we are avidly health-conscious. We both are, however, very much up for a challenge so we approached the day decidedly gung ho!
The train journey to Osaka was uneventful (after we found the platform in Kyoto station). We then took the underground to Shinsaibashi, wanting to see what the fuss is about at Shinsaibashi-suji, a covered arcade, one of Osaka’s oldest and busiest shopping destinations, which runs about 600 metres in length.
After a while, we side-stepped the covered walkway and moved down one block. A much more pleasant walk, passing all those ‘look don’t touch’ shops; with every name we knew, and more.
We were looking for the Ebishu bridge. The name is said to likely come from its position on the pilgrimage route to the Imamiya Ebisu Shrine, dedicated to the kami (deity) Ebisu, who is particularly beloved in Osaka. The bridge is also nicknamed “hikkake-bashi” (ensnare bridge) because of the tradition of “hosts” trying to lure customers and tourists. They needn’t bother with us. Been there, fallen for it more than once, learnt the lessons; short shrift, politely so.
Venturing a little off the beaten track we came across this delightful little garden, set within one of the busiest areas of this metropolis – all lovingly labelled.
Also, remember the crossing sign that featured in Day 3’s blog post – the one by Asahi HQ. There’s one for father’s crossing with child, too.
A little softer in attitude (fatherly?) than the young gallant making a beeline for the Asahi watering hole we tried out.
We did finally make it to Ebishu bridge. Crazy town!
I’ll just let the pictures do the talking
A lot of competition so it is hardly surprising they pull out all the stops to entice people into their eating places.
If possible, the whole place became busier, noisier and madder as the light dropped
Today was exhausting (maybe yesterday’s 199 steps, to the power of 1000, catching up) but lots of fun. We had a bit of a saga, yet again, finding our train and platform at Osaka station.
It was with no little relief we watched Casey Jones steaming in…
So it’s on to Hiroshima tomorrow, where we are expecting something quite different again.
Sailing off to Sparta 
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